Vina del Mar and Valparaiso

3/6

Our journey today was to the beach community of Vina del Mar passing through many vineyards and wineries south of Santiago. We made a short stop at the commemorative park, which was closed following a large international music award ceremony. Next stop was for a tour of the Fonck Museum largely dedicated to the history and culture of Easter Island. After lunch with music at a beach restaurant, we moved on to tour Valparaiso, once a major seaport until the completion of the Panama Canal. The city suffered from the 2010 earthquake resulting in the condemnation of several large apartment buildings and visible cracks in many others. Our next stop was at the former residence of the Nobel Prize wining poet Pablo Neruda. His house sits high on the hillside overlooking the seaport and is a museum of his fanciful collection of art, etc. The surrounding area is an esoteric collection of houses, some expensive and some derelicts.

Last Day in South America

3/7

Today we had an escorted tour of Santiago. The city of 7 million is quite modern with many nice buildings and parks. It however suffers from lying in a bowl which traps the auto emissions. The Andes are only visible during a few days a year. Chile is fortunate to have the Andes as they are able to use rain and snow melt to generate 80% of their electric needs. We walked past the government buildings, central fish market, the stock exchange, and the Presidential Palace where mounted police serve mostly a ceremonial role, and into the Catedral de Santiago. This structure was built by the rich order of the Jesuits and displays a wealth of gold, silver and marble. The Jesuits were so wealthy and powerful that the Spaniards arranged to have them driven out of Chile. We last travelled to the most exclusive residential area of Santiago where the very rich live over looking the rest of the city. A stop made at a lapiz lazuli where Miriam bought some gifts. Returning to the fish market we enjoyed a meal of sea bass just outside of the market and then did a walk through. The fish market is huge, as are the fish. It was established within what appears to be a train station with ornate iron latticeworks but was originally to be an arts and crafts center. Having the afternoon free, we walked to the University area where Miriam bought a ring for herself and I bought my obligatory coffee mug from Chile. A long walk brought us to our hotel to gather our bags and head for the airport. After a four hour flight delay in Lima we arrived home to San Francisco and the good old USA.

Santiago

3/5

This was the first time we did not get a call for when the taxi would come, but we did get picked up and then flew to Santiago. All the airports we flew to were very modern and efficient. Arrived in time to tour the Museum of Pre Colombian Art. The collection consist of sculptures, pottery and jewelry from dozens of the civilizations from South and Central American. Just a few blocks away is the Plaza de Armas and the Catedral de Santiago. Along side of this is an ultra modern office building and french style buildings from the 17 & 18 hundreds. The plaza is where the action is with street performers and sidewalk cafes. Along a covered walkway are probably two dozen hotdog stands all selling the same style "Italiano" (bun, hotdog covered with avocado). This photo shows what one looks like. On the recommendation of earlier acquaintances, we later went to the Azul Profundo Restaurant in the district of Bellavista for dinner. Having ordered a fish stew for "two" we were surprised when this huge pot was set before us. In all the restaurants we learned to order one salad and one entree. Here we should have asked what "for two" meant. The pot was large enough to feed four or more. We liked the meal having had a chance to taste a recommended "eel fish", Congrio. We enjoyed speaking to another couple from Canada who had just travelled to the glaciers in lower Patagonia and hearing their descriptions of their trip.

Chiloe

3/4

Today's journey was on ferry boat to the archipeligos of Chiloe. First stop was on the town of Ancud where we visited a museum dedicated to the preservation of the early churches of the surrounding islands. Since it was the only suitable building material, the churches were constructed with wood without the use of nails. The wood and the builder also etched the wood to give it the appearance of stone. Our next stop on the island was at the Islotes Punihuil where there resides several colonies of Humboldt and Magellan penguins. The adult penguins were molting and have to wait several more weeks before reentering the frigid waters. The new borns have already left. The two species have different patterns. Once they leave the island they travel in opposite directions as winter comes on. Last stop was to pass area where salmon farms are located although we did not visit any. Though Chile produces huge quantities of salmon they were plagued with a virus about five years ago which resulted in the shutdown of many of these farms. Our ferry ride back to the mainland was greeted by local women selling empanadas and other foods.

Helicopter flight over Mt. Tronodor

3/3 Took a walk to the waterfall and past the turbine building where the power for the hotel is produced. Walked to the helicopter for discussion with the pilot. We need another two passengers in order to take us on flight of Mt Tronador. Went back to hotel for lunch where Wayne recruited two, an Australian Gordon and our new friend from Oahu, Chris Jensen. We flew at 3:30 for a spectatular flight over the glaciers, waterfalls and the crater. Miriam was thrilled as she sat in the copilot seat for Imax like view. Transferred to the boat landing for another super clear trip across Lago Todos los Santos to the Petrohue boat landing where we boarded another bus to Puerto Varas and on hotel Bella Vista on Lago LLanquihue. A welcome drink of Pisco Sour (drink made from Grappa). Walked along the shore (15 minute walk, hah) to the Restaurant Alessandro for dinner of mussels and langostinos and pasta. Great salad of smoked salmon and first taste of avocados (talta) which appear to be in every sandwich from now on.

Peulla Chile

3/2

Today we are leaving for the lake crossing to Chile. It is raining as our bus takes us to Puerto Panuelo to board the Turisur to our first stop at Puerto Blest. Very breezy on deck. Most people only stay out for short period. A short bus trip then to Puerto Alegre. The weather starts to clear on the transit from Puerto Alegre to Puerto Frias on a smaller boat. Yet another bus ride over the Andes and the Chilean border. Picture is of us leaving Argentina. This area receives the most rain in all of Argentina, over 160 inches per year. The area is lush with over 30 varieties of ferns. We see several peaks some with snow but Mt Tronador is hiding. The mountain gets it name from the thunder created as ice breaks away from the glacier. We arrive in time to take a canopy excursion directly behind our hotel. As we were the only ones the two man team gave us the royal treatment taking pictures for us with our camera. Miriam took one rough landing but a ice pack and a liquor drink made with chamomile tea put her back on her feet.

Last Leg of the Gran Circuito

3/1 We left San Martin by taking the paved road to Junin de los Andes. This is a real quaint town which appears to cater to retirees. It has several subdivisions with attractive small houses with rose bushes and trees throughout the town. It is also a haven for fishing buffs. The terrain swiftly changed to diverse rock formations which play on ones imagination. The road goes on for many kilometers with no sight of a town and just a few cattle ranches (estancias). We saw a two cowboys (gauchos) rounding up a herd of cattle and several horse running wild. Further along we stopped at Confluencia where the river Limay meets with the Rio Negro. This was like an oasis for us as we were running low on gas by then. This is Wayne signally that we made it safe otherwise we would have needed to flag down the occasional tour buses for help. Arriving back in Bariloche we turned in our car and retreated to the comforts of our hotel, the Design Suites. Wayne however returned to town to buy a needed supply of Bariloche´s famous Mamuscha chocolates.

San Martin

Today we took a trek up the Bandurrias trail to a vantage point where we could observe Lago Lacar from both sides of the mountain, one looking towards San Martin and the other towards Hua Hum and Yuco. Most of the small towns are names from the precolonial indians. After a dusty trek down the mountain we enjoyed our lunch and an afternoon treat of ice cream. Except for Italy's Gelaterias we have never seen so many different flavors. A walk along the shoreline/parque, a performance on the street by Tango dancers from Buenos Aires and a excellent late dinner at the La Tasca restaurant (recommended by our friend Ken Wiffler) ended our day like Argentines at midnight.