Villa La Angostura and on to San Martin

Having spent one day here at this charming swiss style hotel on Lago Correntoso Wayne swam in the pool after breakfast and we headed off for San Martin de las Andes. The road between the two cities is dirt/rock and very bumpy for about 100 kilometers but the scenery is filled with many lakes and jagged peaks. We came across other commuters more adapted to this kind of road. We then descended into a valley and Lago Lacar where there is again a village which caters to sports minded skiers, fishermen and bikers. It is unseasonably warm according to the hotel personnel. We are likely going to spend the day at the shoreline.

Cerro Campanario

2/26
Our morning was spent taking the Cerro Campanario chairlift to an observation platform for yet another panoramic 360 degree view of the lakes and mountains. Returning to our hotel we gathered our bags and headed for the start of the Ciruito Grande stoping at Villa La Angostura for the day and night. This is a small town for sports enthusiasts with skiing, fishing, swimming, hiking, ziplining and kyaking. We took the drive up to the ski resort and a hike to a fairly large waterfall (sorry I haven't figured how to turn photos upright) where there was a zip line over the river. Looked like fun but out of time. Headed down as it was turning dark and back to our lodge for dinner over looking the Largo Nahuel Huapi from the west side.

Circuito Chico

2/25 Today we rented a car to drive around the Circuito Chico which takes us past smaller lakes and up to higher elevations where we had a small lunch overlooking the western mountains looking towards Chile. We continued to drive to the popular ski resort Cerro Catedral where in the summer the lifts are running to take bikers and hikers up the side of mountain for views and sport. Our VW was a bit of a clunker so we asked for a replacement on our return to the hotel. The Avis agent brought a nicer vehicle to our hotel the next day. Bariloche is known for it production of excellent chocolate. With the mountains, the architecture and the chocolates the planners appear to be emulating Switzerland.

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

2/24 Bariloche is a destination for hikers, skier, fishermen and visitors who just enjoy the beautiful terrain of the large Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi and it many larg lakes. This is the northern part of Patagonia. Today we took the boat excursion on the largest lake Largo Nahuel Huapi spending most of our time on the Isla Victoria where there is a large grove of redwoods transplanted from California and due to the climate and soil they have thrived and grow at nearly three times the rate of those in our state. There is also a grove of myrtle trees (Arrayanes) with distinctive cinnamon colored bark not found anywhere else in the world. Test are being conducted on the island to determine how to best restore the native vegetation since pines have spread and squeezed out other species. Non indigenous wild boar and red deer are on the island having been brought in in the early 20th century for hunting lodges.

The remainder of our day was spent viewing the mountains and the swiss like lodgings lining the lake to the south of the city. One magnificant hotel is the Laoa Laoa with manicured gardens and surrounding golf course sitting on a ridge overlooking the mountains and lake on all sides.

2/23

We left the Postales after having a morning view of the Andes. Driver took us on a short of Mendoza, the city. I say city because the Province of Mendoza is very large and includes over a thousand vineyards. We passed large orchards of peaches, pears, grapes, plums and fields of potatoes, squash, onions and garlic. There is an abundance of fruits and vegetables in the province. Also learned that Mendoza produces 20% of the oil production for Argentina. Surprisingly we could see wells and a refinery on our route. Unfortunately for the ecology there has been massive deforestation of large areas to the north for lumber production. Visionaries who designed Mendoza implemented a plan for keeping the city cool by planting sycamore trees along every street with viaducts under the sidewalks to irrigate them. The mature trees now do a great job of doing just that. A previous mayor had nearly started a revolution when he proposed to remove trees to make room for more development. The city is very clean and very much unlike Buenos Aires in that regard.

Our flight out of Mendoza was delayed by a massive downpour which soaked all the luggage as it was moved to the plane. Ran and hail do fall heavily in the area forcing many vineyards to install nets to protect their crops. One winery lost 70% of its production last year due to hail damage.

We arrived at our hotel on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi and spent the evening drying out our clothes after dinner looking over the lake.

Wine Tasting and Andes Trek

2/22

Took a day tour first to two of the Siete Wineries. Originally there were seven owner with different wineries but now there are only five wineries. We visited two of the wineries, where we tasted three Malbec and Malbec blends. Mariflor, Cuvalier de las Andes, and Le Crock. Driver took us first to great outdoor restaurant El Posado del Jamon and then on to the Pass through the Andes where General San Martin crossed into Chile and then Peru to liberate those countries from Spain. There are wild horses and mules roaming the pass but are rounded up and sold in the fall. After returning to our lodge we experienced a tremendous lightning storm with hail that drove Miriam under the covers for the duration.

Some reflections on Argentina so far. Buenos Aires could be the Paris of South America with it numerous french style structures and monuments. The breezes from the ocean and river Plata keep the city relatively free of smog. The main drawback is the amounts of trash and dog poop that liter the streets. Even the Postenos rue the fact that too many citizens lack respect for what they have. The infrastructure is very good with terrific bus and taxi services. Throughout the country the roads and highways are great although heavily congested. These roads are far better than ours are now in California.

Postales valle Uco

2/21

After the fast pace of Buenos Aires today we spent the day at our lodging the Postales valle Uco. The weather is warm and we can see the Andes peaking through the clouds. Walked through the vineyards of this wine lodge. Learned that the former owners had contracted for their grapes to be processed elsewhere and labeled as the house wine and sold without any aging. New owners are taking a more professional approach. Made arrangement for a tour of the Blois de Siete Wineries for the next day.

Last Day in Buenos Aires

2/20

Packed our bags. Took collectivo numero 10 to the Casa Rosada for free tour on Sundays of the halls and offices of the Presidential Palace. (No, that is not Evita on the balcony). Surprised to discover from the inscription under each portrait that most of the former Argentine presidents, heroes and other prominent leaders were either deposed, assassinated, beheaded, hung or sent into exile. What a system of political transition. Adjacent to the Palace begins the Sunday El Rastro which is a market place for hundreds of small vendors which extends for at least 20 blocks. Race back to our hotel to catch our taxi to the airport where many flights were delayed due a lightning strike of the airport’s control tower. Our flight got away on time to Mendoza. Luckily we had not booked the earlier flight as it had been delayed over four hours.

3rd Day in Buenos Aires

2/19 Considered changing flight to Mendoza to Sunday morning but could not do so.Instead decided to go to the Botanical Gardens but first went through the city’s zoo with a collection of animals and birds found exclusively in South America and some that are not (Those are real giraffes). Next we toured the Museo de Artes de Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)with its collection of Latin Americian artists featuring those of Xul Soler and Fernando Botero. Next went through the Japanese Garden which rival that of San Francisco. Finished with a walk through the Botanical Gardens with many interesting sculptures. Were tired and hungry but too early for dinner in the Palermo Soho neighborhood. No Portenos eat dinner before 10pm. Returned to Recoleta to take in the artisan fair and outdoor tango street dancers before dinner al fresco at the Buler Brew Pub. Retired at 11pm but awakened by disco music playing till 3am. Portenos love to dance till the wee hours.

2/18

Picked up at hotel for 1 hour drive by bus to Estanzia La Susana for Fiesta Gaucha. Were treated to empanadas and vino. Viewed historical residence of early ranchers. Heard history of the gauchos and their life style. Watched cooks prepare barbecue over large wood fire pits. Enjoyed traditional folkloric music and dances, including tango and boleadoras. Adjourned to corral area where the gauchos maneuvered groups of horse with assistance of a trained dog and lead horses with bells. Gauchos then demonstrated riding skills by skewering a small metal ring hanging from a wooden beam while in full gallop.

On returning to Buenos Aires we drove past one of the largest shanty towns (villa 31) built under and along the toll road. These areas are occupied by unemployed people who afford to live due to a government subsidy of 140 pesos/mo/child. Consequently the families are very large and with the subsidies they can afford televisions, cell phones, and satellite services. The working class resents this program because it is viewed as the means for politicians to get elected by buying the votes of this ever growing class of poor people.

Teatro Colon

2/17 Took bus to Teatro Calon for one hour tour of theater. Rated the third best opera house in the world for acoustics. The theater crew was preparing for the new season and setting up props. Not sure what this opera is to be. All materials in the theater were imported from Europe in first decade of 20th century. Three different architects were hired to complete structure. Two died during their tenure leading some to believe the house was jinxed. Afterwards walked to the Puerto Madero for lunch at La Cabana. Very nice setting overlooking the River de la Plata. Search for a while to find bus back to Recoleta. Too tired to go out.

Big Day in Buenos Aires

2/16 Continental breakfast. Picked up for city tour. Stops include Hydraulic Flower which opens and close everyday at United Nations Park. Next was free university law school. Other monuments donated by other nations to commemorate two hundred year anniversary of independence from Spain. Next was Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada where Eva Peron (aka Madonna) made her balcony appearance before the people. We heard that about half the people loved and half hated Eva. Next stop at the Cathedral where San Martin the liberator of much of South America is entombed guarded 24 hours a day by two elaborately uniformed guards. Also, passed a protest camp occupied by veterans of the Malvines War with Britain. They are still seeking pensions which the government has denied them. Next stop La Boca, the funky neighborhood with streets lined with colorful houses, local artist and tango dancers. Drove by Puerto Madero passing the shanty housing area where poor squatters live under the freeway followed by a long section of high rise office and commercial buildings along the River. After a walk through the Francia Park we toured the Cemetary of Recolecta where Eva Peron is entombed along with other members of her Duarte. After lunch of Pizza and local beer we went to the Ateneo book store, an elaborate former multi tiered concert hall. Walked to new Hyatt Hotel which has a nice collection of paintings and murals including one by the famous Argentinian artist Guillermo Roux. Big Day finished with Tango Dinner and Show.

Back to Iguazu Falls

2/15 Spent most of morning drying clothes and shoes from previous stay at Yakutinga. See evidence in the photos. Picture taken at edge of falls from the Brazilian side. Went to observation deck of hotel to view the falls for last time. Fifteen minute taxi ride to airport. Plane delayed an hour waiting for replacement crew. Arrived at Hotel Ayres in District Recoleta. Had a very bad meal at the Punta de Recoleta. Complained to the manager and paid only for our wine and water. Our waiter was also devious trying to get us to buy higher priced meals and wines by saying they were out of what we asked for.

Brazilian Falls

Up for breakfast and packing. Planted trees as part of restoration of the rainforest within Yakutinga Lodge. Left for tour of Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. Amazing volumes of water pummeling the walls and sending billows of mist into the air. Got drenched at low level observation platforms. Recommend coming here wearing swim suit and/or short pants and poncho with sandles. With heat the clothes dried quickly. Returned to Sheraton within the park. Took swim and celebrated with a Brazilian drink Caparinha.

Dinner on Valentines Day

Yacutinga Lodge

2/13

Continental Breakfast followed by 3 1/2 hour nature walk concentrating on birds and trees. Carlino is master of wildlife and carries cell phone with bird call app to attract birds. Overcast makes it difficult to spot wildlife. Did see some colorful birds and the raccoon like animal crossing the road which was extremely muddy and red. Returned for coffee and to our cabin to shower and try to wash out red clay. Vegetarian lunch and fruit cup. Back to cabin for nap.

Lecture on hummingbirds by botanist Guy. Downpour kept us from tour of hummingbird garden. Demonstration of how to make mate tea and reveiro. Lots of patience required. Charlie gave history of the building of the lodge. Toured the hummingbird garden where study is done on type of birds and food habits.

Iguazu Falls

2/12/2011

Arose early thinking we were on same time as Brazilian side of Iguazu. No one in restaurant. Got coffee and came back at 7:30. Walked to lower falls though the sign “No Entrada” was still displayed. Huge volumes of water on side falls and the main ones. At the Salto Bossetti Falls we got drenched from the billows of mists. With plenty of time we then walked the upper falls, not quite as spectacular but impressive views of drop offs . Went to breakfast just in time. Talked to receptionist at hotel who said we had time to take the small train to the Devils Throat. Friendly agent let us cut in to catch the next train. Long walk over metal platforms to get to the boiling caldron with huge spray. Back to the train with enough time to pack our bags and meet our driver Silvio who drove us to rondevouz spot for pick up in funky bus to Yacutinga Environment Lodge.

LIma Peru

After a mishap in which Wayne left his credit cards and driver's license at home we took off from SFO to LAX and then direct to Lima. The service and comfort were excellent flying LAN. And we are solving our mishap with the help of our great neighbors, the Albons.

Our first day in Lima consisted of a private tour of this city of about 10 million people. Lima is a mix of modern, Spanish colonial and poorer districts. We learned of Peru's rich cultural and troubled history and now a country enjoying major economic development with lower inflation. Unfortunately much of the population is very poor with little social benefits. However, the rise of the middle class continues and one can notice the comfortable standard of living in neighborhoods such as Miraflores.

Our guide took us through the old historic section where we visited the huge and very impressive monastery of St. Francis so sturdily built in the 15oos that it has survived several major earthquakes. It has a massive catacomb containing thousands of bones and skulls. Unfortunately many of the skulls have been stolen by sorcerers who practice black magic. We next stopped at the historic Square Plaza Mayor where a changing of the guard occurs at noon around the Presidential Palace. In the most prominent location at the plaza, we toured the Santa Rosa de Lima Cathedral which has had to have several major restorations. We ended our tour with a drive along the scenic coastal area near our hotel in the Miraflores district. Had delicious empanadas for lunch and later took a walk along the seawall to Larcomar where we enjoyed ceviche and algarriba, a delicious drink made with pisco. Larcomar is a beautiful open air complex that combines shopping, food and entertainment. Quite the happening place.